Korean sunscreen, explained: SPF, PA++++ and the five textures

Why the sunscreen aisle is where Korean and Japanese beauty is furthest ahead, what the plus signs mean, and how to pick between a cream, a gel, a serum, a stick and a cushion.

By the Dew Select editors · Updated September 14, 2026

Why people import sunscreen

Sunscreen filters are regulated as drugs in the United States, and between 1999 and June 2026 the FDA approved no new UV filter at all. Korea and Japan treat sunscreen as a cosmetic and use newer filters (Uvinul A Plus, Tinosorb S and M, Uvinul T 150) that give strong UVA protection without the white cast, greasiness or stinging of older formulas. That is the whole reason a $16 Korean sunscreen feels like a serum and an American one feels like paste.

The catch: the Korean brands now sell separate US versions with the old filters, and that is what Olive Young US, Ulta and Sephora stock. The stores on this site that ship from Korea and Hong Kong (YesStyle, Stylevana, Jolse, StyleKorean, Olive Young Global) carry the Korean formula, and for sunscreens we list only those, plus Amazon with a caveat.

SPF and PA are two different scales

SPF measures UVB, the burning rays. SPF 30 blocks about 97 percent, SPF 50 about 98 percent; Korean sunscreens are almost all SPF 50+.

PA measures UVA, the aging rays, and it is the number American labels do not give you. PA+ is some UVA protection, PA++ moderate, PA+++ high, and PA++++ (introduced in Japan in 2013) is the top grade, meaning a PPD value of 16 or more. Nearly every current Korean sunscreen is PA++++. If a product says only "broad spectrum" with no PA, it was made for the US market.

On the box	Say it	It means
자외선 차단	jaoeseon chadan	UV blocking. Marks a regulated sunscreen claim.
무기자차	mugijacha	mineral (inorganic) sunscreen: zinc oxide, titanium dioxide.
유기자차	yugijacha	chemical (organic) sunscreen.
혼합자차	honhapjacha	hybrid: both kinds of filter.
백탁	baektak	white cast. 백탁 없음 means no white cast.
워터프루프	woteopeurupeu	waterproof, water resistant.
톤업	toneop	tone-up: a sunscreen with a tint that brightens.

The five textures

Korea sells sunscreen in more forms than anywhere else. Pick by how it feels, because the one you will actually reapply is the right one.

Sun cream (선크림). The classic. Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun is the best-known: rice and probiotics, a dewy finish, no white cast. Good for normal to dry skin.
Sun gel / watery gel (선젤). Lighter and cooler; Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Watery Sun Gel and Biore UV Aqua Rich are the reference points. Good under makeup and for oily skin.
Sun serum (선세럼). The thinnest of all. Skin1004 Hyalu-Cica Water-Fit Sun Serum spreads like a hydrating serum and sets down without residue.
Sun stick (선스틱). A solid balm you swipe on. Made for reapplying over makeup and for the back of the neck, ears and hands. Abib Airy Sunstick is a fan favorite. Sticks are easy to under-apply: four passes over each area.
Sun cushion (선쿠션). A compact with a sponge; often tinted. Convenient, but the hardest form to apply enough of.

Beauty of Joseon

How much, and how often

Every SPF number assumes 2 milligrams per square centimeter, which for a face is about a quarter teaspoon, or two full finger-lengths of product. Most people apply a third of that. Reapply every two hours outdoors and after sweating or swimming; indoors near a window, once at lunch is a reasonable compromise.

Sunscreen goes on last in the morning, after moisturizer and before makeup. At night, wash it off with an oil or balm cleanser first: the water-resistant filters do not rinse away with foam alone. That is the origin of the double cleanse.

Japanese sunscreens

Japan is the other sunscreen superpower, and its bestsellers lean toward sweat- and water-resistance. Anessa Perfect UV Skincare Milk (Shiseido) is the beach and sport sunscreen that gets stronger with heat and sweat; Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence is the everyday drugstore favorite with a gel-water feel. Both are SPF 50+ PA++++. On the box, 日焼け止め (hiyakedome) means sunscreen, and ウォータープルーフ is waterproof.